Saturday, July 17, 2010

Little Things I Don't Want to Forget

YOU MUST JAY WALK if you WANT TO FIT IN
The first day, we thought it was crazy the way everyone dashed out in the street, just kinda dodging cars, cutting crossways at corners. It was just nuts. But now we're doin it too. It would take you forever to get anywhere if you waited for the lights to change before you cross the street.

Hoses Come In HANDY
People do pick up their dog poop. But what about all the pee? The pee is cleaned up every morning when people hose the sidewalks in front of their brownstone or shop.

UNITED NATIONS
In Central Park - it seems odd the # of white babies we see being strolled by women of every nationality in the world. DUH! It's the nannies.

FLEA On the WALL
I can't describe how intriguing it is to people watch here. You simply are amazed by what you see. But I wouldn't want to live here all the time - it is wall to wall people here.

STOOP SITTERS
Just like you see on TV shows. Last couple days has been a little warmer here. In evening and mornings, we see people sitting out on the stoop, usually as a pair, and they are just shooting the breeze, drinking wine, or playing cards.

Police Presence
At the Times Square subway station today. There were uniformed policeman stationed about every 30 feet all along the track. We haven't seen that at any other station. Sometimes they make announcements or have posters up in the subway train reminding you to report any suspicious packages. This is the post 9/11 world NYC operates in.

Voyeur on the Prowl
It is fun to walk around after it gets dark because you can see in people's windows. Our street is mostly brownstones, and quite a few of them look REALLY nice inside. Lots of original and elaborate light fixtures. One we saw had a wooden spiral staircase. Am guessing it is pretty expensive, but no real way to know just how expensive.

Best Conversationalist
On the subway today, a guy got on who was dressed in sport coat, had a briefcase, and looked quite "professional". He had the absolute most animated conversation we have ever seen. Only, he was talking to himself. It was literally a 2 way conversation, he talked, then he replied. He had lots of hand motions. NO FILTER from his mind to his voice. At first it was humorous, but then it was sad when you understood this was real.

Another Funny Train Encounter
Coming home from the cemetery in Brooklyn. The man wanted directions but he YELLED at the guy trying to help him. SLOW DOWN, SLOW DOWN. You had to be there to "get it".

Expensive Habit
The state legislature voted to add $1.60 sales tax to cigarettes on top of other taxes. That puts a pack of cigarettes in NYC at $11.00.

So There!
Guy speaking LOUDLY on his cell, as he walks down the street: "I hope your plane CRASHES over the Atlantic" Then he hung up.

Where's my Jar?
About 2 blocks from our apt is Abington Square Park. A small little oasis with flowers, hydrangeas, and benches. We were there last night and noticed saws tons of lightening bugs twinkling in the dusk! Never would I have imagined seeing lightening bugs in NYC.

Help Wanted
We've had several people ask us for directions over the last few days. Gary says we've lost the "deer in the headlights" look.

Note to Self
Don't get into the empty subway cars. If it is empty, the AC isn't working!!! And it is a bit scary walking between cars when its moving fast, especially in flip flops.

Sailing, Sailing
I keep feeling like I've been on a cruise ship. Think it is the swaying of the subway. Been here nearly 3 weeks and still haven't ridden in a cab yet.

Modes of Transportation
It is amazing how many people navigate the streets either on skateboards or razors, and lots of bikes. People do it to get around. Plus it is a common way that restaurants do delivery. It is just nuts. Can't get any photos, because they're moving too fast! It's no wonder they don't drive cars. We've seen several signs where parking is $8.45 per HALF Hour.

Have Wheels, Will Travel!
There is a nice grocer in our neighborhood. We notice they have a refrigerated bin, kinda like an ice cream bin, but on wheels. That's how they do grocery delivery. Seems no one cooks here, or if they do, they don't go to the grocery, the grocery comes to them!

Paradox
Most things in grocery are way more expensive than at home. Like lettuce cost $3.00 that would be $1.50 at home. But at the bakery bread is $1.25 that would be about $4.00 at home.

People have been nice
In general, people kinda put up a wall and don't interact with strangers. But we have had a large number of people offer to help us even when we don't ask. A lady on the subway heard us talking and advised us to get off, and take another train when she heard where we were wanting to go. Several times people have come up and just said, do you have question about where you're wanting to go.

$$$
I've spent $22 upgrading my " NY look". $12 on a fakey import China watch and $10 on a snazzy hat (100% paper, according to the label) Everyone here is wearing these hats. We're still looking for the "right" hat for Gary.

The "Man Bag" isn't just a fashion statement
Nearly the guys you see around have a bag over their shoulder. The more I got to thinking about it, I realized what you and I would toss in the backseat of the car, these guys have to carry with them, because they are walking or riding the subway to get around.

Food Network We ate at Barbuto one night, just because when we walked by we liked the vibe, the energy, and the looks of the menu. The very next night we were flipping thru Food Network, and the owner/chef of Barbuto was on TV. He was a judge on some cooking show. Jonathan Waxman. Food was very yummy.

Vice of Choice
Although the cupcakes have been good, cannoli has turned out to be my vice of choice. Gary has probably had a sorbet, sorbetto, or italian ice at least every other day....so maybe about 15 since we've been here.

Modes of Transportation
Mostly this is a "walking" city. But these are the additional methods of transportation we've seen: (note, all of these are people going down the street amongst the cars--not on the sidewalk) Razor Scooter, Rollerblades, Bicycle, Bicycle with wood bin built in front to carry 2 children, Skate Board. We saw a guy with a unicycle, but didn't see him riding it. Have not seen travel via pogo stick yet!

Southern Manners
Gary offered his subway seat to a girl (probably in 30's) on the way back from the Cloisters. She about fainted that he offered! (I have seen men offer seats to older ladies, but not so much to younger ones.) She looked at me and bragged about what a nice guy Gary is!

Movie Making
Walking back from Tribeca we saw big trucks that was a movie filming crew. The guy said the movie will come out next year and be called "Premium Rush". I'll have to look for that and see if I recognize the scenery.

Miniatures
My photos weren't good, so didn't post, but I loved the miniatures at the Forbes Gallery. Collections included: (1)Wooden Boats (like we saw in Paris at park), (2) Many tin figurines - settings included soldiers, African safari type settings, circus, etc etc.
(3) Monopoly boards (original hand created, before it was ever printed) (4) The little room that demonstrated the poem where the boy was sick and all the toys in his room "came alive"

Art Everywhere
At the Central Park Symphony Concert, Mayor Bloomberg came out and welcomed everyone. He mentioned how important the arts are to NYC, and said there are 500 galleries and 150 museums in Manhattan.

Beetles Photos
The candid Beetles photos at the Morrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo were very cool

The BEST of NY
Best Neighborhood Restaurant - The Little Owl -
Best Pizza - John's in the Village -
Best Beer (atmosphere) - The Blind Tiger Ale House -the Village
Best Beer (price) - bucket of Yinglings at the pub under the sidewalk $2
Learned the Most - The Tenement Museum -
Craziest - all the people riding skateboards in the street -
Biggest Bang for the Bucks - our seats at the July 4th fireworks -
Biggest Tax Evasion - the # of restaurants that took CASH ONLY -
Most Stereotypical - the Italians at the Gugilio festival-
Biggest Insight - the amount of wealth and philanthropy in the early days of the city-
Most Impressive - The Met -
Best Celeb - Regis, but Kelly was also VERY nice to the audience-
Best Tour - Jason Ferete @ Grand Central-
Most Historic - NY Library -
Favorite Street - Bleeker in West Village -
Favorite Building - The Chrysler Building -
Most Surprising - the number of dogs we saw on the streets -
Best thing to do at night - Sit by the river and take the LONG way home -
Best Advice - the guy on the train "even the crackheads commute"-

Famous Places






Although we didn't want to be "tourists" for the month, we still took in some famous sites

Still Addicted to Architecture







More buildings I love! Old and New!

Addicted to Architecture






When I look back thru my photos, I am starting to see a "theme". Am I a closet architect? I LOVE the photo of the modern building taken at dusk from the Highline Park. My FAVORITE building (inside and outside) is the Chrysler Building, with it's art deco interior & sleek steel exterior.

Restaurant Hopping






We could eat out in our neighborhood every day for a year, and never go to the same place twice. The variety and the quality of places is simply unimaginable. Walking to dinner was nightly entertainment. And stopping by for cannoli and sorbet after dinner was such a treat (even if I didn't pronounce cannoli like they wanted me to!). Some favorites: Extra Virgin - perfect atmosphere -great food, and great people watching from our seats on the sidewalk. A real neighborhood place. The Little Owl - only about 10 tables and very very delicious. Suzie's - we had to go to NY to get good Chinese! John's of Bleecker St. - everyone debates over the "best pizza". Our vote goes to John's. Others places that evoke fond memories: The corner mini mart - getting a bagel sandwich for breakfast (bacon, egg, & cheese) for $1.50 was a great start in the morning. A Salt and Battery , La Bonbonniere, the pub below the sidewalk where a bucket of beer was $11, the candlelit Italian place no wider than 25 feet, Italian place on the sidewalk (where our neighbor Mario Bulto eats on Sundays), Italian at the place in the meat packing district. Italian at the place near "The Garage". Italian street food at Chelsea market. Did I say Italian enough?

It was fun to just wander in and find cool spaces on our own like The Blind Tiger Ale House (very much an English pub) or the Spotted Pig (gourmet food but sophisticated pig decor) and then come home and find those very places are listed in guide books as a "best of" NY place.

People Watching






I wish I had the nerve to take photos of all the interesting people we saw. But most of the time it just seemed "too invasive". Here are a few of our various encounters:

The guards came into view when we exited the boat from the Statue of Liberty tour. We found their presence a bit startling.

The "guy" with the great hair and eyelashes was wearing a designer bathing suit and stilettos. He was working the crowd outside the theatre at La Cage Aux Folles. By the way, he had great legs.

The yoga guy reminds me that this is a "real" city and people are living their "normal" lives when they do stuff like go out on the pier to practice their yoga.

The little man on the sidewalk was a cart vendor, he was sitting on a wooden crate while taking a break to enjoy a cigar and his afternoon tea out of the silver pot.

Shop till you Drop






From the fancy to the fanciful, NYC has it all.

Still Window Shopping




Window Shopping








You didn't even have to go in a store to enjoy the wares! Window shopping in NYC is entertainment in itself.

Long Drive Home

We got up at the crack of dawn. We walked the neighborhood for just one last time, and took those last few "must have" photos. Getting out of NYC at daybreak was surprisingly easy - right under the Hudson River via the Holland Tunnel, through industrial Newark, and then on to Pennsylvania. We made it a marathon -- drove through 8 states (NY, NJ, PA, MD, WV, VA, NC, SC)-- in one day and picked up Marley Dog at June & Bobby's house in SC. (That was one happy dog!!)

We had fun making a list of the "best of NYC" on the way home. There was no best thing. The best thing was simply the whole experience. Every part, every thing we did, everything we saw, everyone we met made for memories of a life time.

The photos that follow are just the sights of the city that didn't fit in elsewhere, but we want to remember.

Friday, July 16, 2010

The Neighborhood "Regulars"



The LAST thing I want to do is make our neighborhood look bad. Over the course of a month, there have been VERY VERY few bums around. This neighborhood is quite affluent. (In fact, a lady at the grocery store told me she sees Sam Shepard (Law & Order) walking his dog here regularly.

But we have come to look for a few "regulars" as we stroll the streets around our apartment. First, we have "The Can Man". You get 5 cents back for returning bottles to the grocery. This guy goes thru all the bagged garbage on the sidewalks prior to the garbage truck coming thru and fishes out the returnable can/bottles. Another regular is "Indian Joe". Sadly he is an alchoholic that hangs out around the 14th St. subway station. We saw him the very first day, and daily till we left. The corner newspaper vendor and a few others seem to "keep an eye" on him. We also noticed the "Regular Beggar"--a guy who only panhandles M-F. He takes weekends off (don't want to work TOO hard!). And lastly, we never figured out "She-Man". Gary thinks its a woman, I think it's a transgendered man. Most evenings sh(h)e is out on the stoop, and always speaks to us when we walk by. Not that it really matters, but it's just a topic of conversation for us to debate.

It was nice having our "familiar faces" in the neighborhood.

More Bank Street Tour






These photos are other sights on Bank St., beginning with "Ye Waverly Inn" which is directly across the street from our apartment. The Abingdon Market is at corner of Bank and Abingdon. "Automatic Slims" is the last building on Bank St.
Across from Slims is Hudson River Promenade which runs along the Hudson River with views of NJ.

Besides having the Mills as residents for 1 month, what was really interesting was to find out about the "notable" residents and events of Bank St. over the course of time.























# 7 - Willa Cather lived here 1913-27. (She wrote "My Antonia" and was one of my favorite authors in college lit class.)
#16 - "Ye Waverly Inn" - Charming upscale restaurant with outdoor courtyard in back. Jackie Gleason was a regular there. I read on line that Matt Lauer eats here these days. We didn't see him, but did see quite a few limos dropping people off. The restaurant is in basement level of 1845 home. We often saw the waiters setting up the tables on the entry porch facing Bank.
#34 - Long time home of Charles Kuralt
#48 - 1910 Stable converted to townhome in 1969
#37 - 1837 row house. AIA guide says one of best Greek Revival houses in the Village
#63 - Sid Vicious died here of herion OD Feb 1, 1979
#75 - Lauren Bacall moved here just before she became Miss Greenich Village 1942
#105 - John & Yoko moved here in 1971 and lived here until 1973 when they moved to the Dakota. It is modest basement apartment.
#120 - Acting studio founded in 1945. Alumni: Jack Lemon, Faye Dunaway, Robert DiNero, Sigorney Weaver, Al Pacino, Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker
#131 - Automatic Slims. I LOVE that name. It advertises itself as "One Bar Under a Groove" - how cool.

How I know all this stuff:
I found a fantastic web site called "www.nysonglines.com"
This guy has researched many many streets in NY and gives you the history of each address.

Tour of Our Street: Bank Street






We LOVE our neighborhood and street. After walking the city for the last month, I haven't seen a place in the entire city that would have been a better place have as "home sweet home".

Our Street:
Our apartment is in a 6-story 1930's building on the corner of Greenwich Ave. and Bank St. Bank St. is tree-lined, and is 7 short blocks long--it takes us bout 5 minutes to walk it end to end. Bank St. begins at our apartment (One Bank St.), and at the very end of our street is the Hudson River, with views of NJ across the river. Walking the street, mostly you pass attached row homes (townhouses), with pretty doors and elaborate iron work staircases. While Banks is mostly residential, on some corners there are either little shops (Marc Jacobs), cozy restaurants, or small parks (with fountains and benches). Most townhouses are 3 or 4 stores tall, plus they have a lower level that is entirely underground or partially underground. The underground spaces in residential buildings usually have their own entrance and are rented out as separate apartment.

The Vibe:
Bank is residential and quiet, but there are always people out and about. People are out strolling, walking their dogs, sitting on the stoop, getting coffee or a bite to eat at one of the small corner restaurants etc. We read that this area is quite "gentrified". In checking the real estate notices, it looks like a 1BR might sell for something like 800K, and full townhouses go for as much as 2-4 million. When I look in the townhouse windows I see lots of original architectural woodwork, exposed brick, original chandeliers, elaborate fire place mantles, and floor to ceiling bookcases. In general, (the girls especially) are dressed "smart". Not really dressed up, but look very "put together".

What was weird:
They have a thing here called "alternate street parking" which means on 2 days a week you have to move your car between 10-11:30 AM so the street cleaning trucks can clean the street. On these days, you see people sitting in their cars, (eating, reading, napping) just waiting for the truck to arrive so they can circle the block till the truck is done, and they can get their parking space back.

The History:
Bank Street was named for Alexander Hamilton's Bank of NY. B of NY, opened a branch here after their downtown offices were quarantined in 1798 because of a yellow fever epidemic.

Gotta Love Greenich Village



The more we learned about Greenwich Village, the more intriguing the whole area became. I noticed a historical marker located on a street corner right before we left and it seemed to sum it up much better than I could say. So I went back early the morning we were leaving with a paper and pen and wrote it down word for word. Here's what it said:

"One of the biggest and most irregularly defined historic districts, Greenwich Village contains architecture from many periods of history and it is a world wide byword for artistic achievement and bohemian lifestyle. A separate village in the 18th century, the area boomed after NY residents fled the 1703 yellow fever epidemic raging on the island's southern tip. The grid iron plan for growth of Manhattan, developed in 1811, marched around the village's irregular street pattern.

Many of the 19th century red brick Federal style, Greek Revival and later Italianate style buildings remain with insertions of late 19th century tenements. Pre- WWII apartment buildings thrust through the low rise domestic skyline in places.

Discovered as a low rent haven before WWI, the Village has been home ever since to artists, to writers, and today it attracts theatre and media celebrities as well."

Greenwich Streetscape






You never knew what you'd stumble upon around the next corner in the Village. It could be anything from the iconic night spot "The Village Vanguard" to a movie or commercial being shot on the street. Then again, it could be something of historical significance such as Public School #3 (literally, that was the 3rd public school constructed in Manhattan), or a marker noting the presence of Mark Twain.